Nanjing’s long-standing food vendors and eateries in downtown neighbourhoods offer a real taste of city and local life. I go back to those places when I can, preferably later in the afternoon to bring something home for a simple supper, and, like many other Nanjingers (or the older ones perhaps), I always get a bag of “shaobing” (烧饼). You must try them if you haven’t, but it is even better to appreciate these humble pastries in some cultural context. “Bing” apart from being a search engine which you’d use only...

You know there is a sort of restaurant in every city. They often look small and unpretentious from the outside, despite their long-standing reputation in the community. They specialise in local favourites; nothing too fancy, but simply tasty and comforting. The prices are affordable, the vibe casual and friendly. Inside, surrounded by glasses clinking, people chatting and perhaps kids crying, you peek into the everyday life of locals and as the night goes on, eventually find yourself becoming part of them. It might get too loud sometimes, but having...

Over the past year or two, some of the fanciest coffee shops, bars and bistros have mushroomed around the intersection of Wangfu Da Jie (王府大街) and Nantai Xiang (南台巷). The Sauce, Wine Thieves, Bitter Brew, Southern Trip, Staff Only, Cherry Bomb, Y&T… the list could go longer. If you have been following The Nanjinger, chances are that many of the names sound familiar to you. But have you ever walked around that area early in the morning, like 08:00?  “What for?”, You might wonder. The time is indeed too early...

The night of 1912 is not quiet. The noisy bars, the colourful Ferris wheel, the flashing neon and fashionable people make for a splendid city scene. Yet Shi Wang Fu stands as still as the nearby lake’s waters, displaying an elegant Chinese air.  A clean and tidy marble facade sports an ivory palette of colour under a soft, white light. The golden carved door, the smiling waiters who receive you, the name of the restaurant in beautiful calligraphy, the red carpet that stretches deep into the interior; all display the...