Have you ever gone online to see what “Western” or “international” food options there exist in Nanjing? Perhaps you were looking for a new place to take your friends? Or perhaps you were looking for somewhere to host your work party? For whatever the reason, you continued to search… and search… and search. With a heavy heart you said to yourself, why do I even bother? I know there isn’t going to be anything aside from the handful that have really made it in Nanjing.
I guess it takes time to really “internationalise” a city, perhaps a city’s international food selection says a lot about its international community as a whole. So with that said, it gives me great pleasure to introduce to you Chaley! Pronounced with the English “ch” not the French “sh” (I was told is how people greet each other in Ghana), this place is helping give Nanjing that true international feel.
Moving what was Calabash on Shanghai Lu to a new location further downtown, brain child, co-owner and resident chef Paa, moved to Nanjing in order to study architecture. He found himself, however, cooking his mother’s recipes in his dormroom before the popularity of West African comfort grew so much he began making deliveries all over Nanjing by bike. The obvious next step was to open his own place.
With fellow partner in crime and front man, Lloyd, helping to realise that dream, this dynamic duo walk the walk on what it means to eat and talk African food. As a child, Paa spent time in his mother’s kitchen; while doing the washing up, he watched and learned. Why fix something that isn’t broken? Better yet, add something new and make it your own. With a creative blend of his mother’s recipes and his help from Pinterest, Paa serves up some finger lickin’ goodness indeed.
First up, soup, and my, was it to die for! This creamy peanut soup had a flavour in it I couldn’t quite put my finger on, which is what made it so exciting. Slightly orange in colour, this peanut goodness is rich, yet light and playful on the tongue, while we also sampled the palm nut soup; mildly spiced yet rich in colour.
Next, barbecued skewers. Now, for those lovers of barbecue out there severely disappointed with Chinese fat flaps at their local BBQ joint, get yourself down to Chaley. Big, marinated, smoky, melt-in-your-mouth chucks of lamb really did have me pondering and picturing myself on an African beach, sunglasses on with the smell of barbecue in the air.
The “piece de resistance” came in the form of grilled chicken thigh accompanied by jallof rice, two spiced sauces, coleslaw and a boiled egg on a banana leaf, a generously-sized homely dish. In addition, we munched our way through grilled fish (sourced from the Guangdong African community) and banku, a Ghanaian dish cooked by mixing together fermented corn and cassava dough. This takes some getting used to, but together with the fish and spices, it was a culinary adventure.
Disappointed as I was that the ice cream was all out, but from what we heard, “I’ll be back” to try it, as homemade coconut ice cream with rum and berry jam sounds too mouthwateringly tempting to pass up. When you make the trip to Chaley, settle yourself down at the bar for a few very reasonably priced pre dinner drinks; three lagers on tap at ¥25, ¥38 for a house wine and at prices unheard of in Xinjiekou, cocktails go for ¥35-40. Meals come reasonably priced as well, in the ¥25-60 range.
The Nanjinger however, felt the trip to the toilet to be a rather arduous trek, as one needs to use the neighbouring hotel. Yet, if is this is all we can fault them on, that’s saying something. The safari in your mouth awaits.
Vegan options also available.
Chaley is located at No. 136 Zhongshan East Rd (next to the Hanting Hotel) 中山东路136号 (汉庭酒店旁边）
Tel: 13160020121 / 15651725575.
