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Doing the Limbo, New Nanjing Style

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“How low can you go”, goes the song. “How high can you you fly”, might be more appropriate, at one of Nanjing’s newest Western eateries; high, as in the setting of the bar, and yes, high, in terms of the asking prices.

This is Limbo. From the man who brought us Pluto that occupies almost the entire second floor of the development, the eaterie is another of the new establishments clustered into a swathe of Catherine Park, adjacent to Gulou Park.

With one whole wall of patio doors swung wide open, Limbo immediately and almost effortlessly sports a chic and authentic Mediterranean vibe. The caveat to all of that being that the tables at Limbo are a little close together, given the prices that lie ahead.

Our first order; Mediterranean Charcuterie Board (¥148) was indeed served on a bread board, itself nothing out of the extroadinary given how many establishments in Nanjing now offer up this tempting appetizer. Yet, each item was delicious and beautifully presented so as to be difficult to fault.

This particular correspondent makes no secret of being not the largest enthusiast of steak, but he neverless plumped for Pan-seared Angus M3 Fillet Mignon Steak (¥289). Arriving exactly as ordered, something in itself a bit of a rarity in Nanjing, this is one succulent piece of Australian prime beef.

Those of us fond of crustaceans had opted for the Valencia Seafood Paella (¥198 for 2 persons; ¥388 for 4), a decision that ignited a debate over the fact that traditional paella should be served with very little seafood. Limbo’s creator, Desmo, explained to The Nanjinger that if its not loaded to the hilt with king prawns, the Chinese are going to simply walk out. Bang goes authenticity on that one, but fair point, one worthy of consideration as to the lesser of the evils; fewer customers or less nods to the cuisine’s very origins.

On the drinks end of things, our party was a little taken aback to be brought a bottle of red wine from the cellar that arrived dripping with condensation, the way a thirst-quenching beer usually comes direct from the fridge. As another thing that is for sure, The Nanjinger would certainly not have the courage to upcharge its wine list with as much gusto as Limbo can muster.

It may just be that higher prices are simply going to be a fact of life in Nanjing, as it continues its scramble to keep ahead of second tier cities in 21st century China’s lust for the disposable incomes of that new upper middle class.

To be fair, Limbo has already addressed some of our issues, and there is no doubt that we will be back, eager for more new-found Nanjing fine dining, albeit with our thermometer.

Limbo is located in Nanjing’s Catherine Park, off Beijing Dong Lu 环亚凯瑟琳广场半山花园 Tel: 58211027

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