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Breaking Down the Beijing Bar Scene; Part II

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In this month’s issue of The Nanjinger, Matt concludes his reviews of no less than 21 of the Northern Capital’s craft beer bars that he visited over the week-long National Day holiday.

Peiping/Beiping Machine Brewing and Sour Tower (46 Fangjia Hutong) is a find! Do not be waylaid into the other bars in this little hutong development, but head straight to the rear of the courtyard for the best, wherein 32 taps feature their own beers and guests. This place stylish; a superb brick industrial-style conversion. The food is excellent, with the “jianbings” being particularly memorable. There were few westerners here, which surprised me, but it is not easy to find and it is more expensive than some bars, so that may explain it. However, there are discounts for afternoon drinking. It is very busy from about 5 pm. Immediately next door is a very swish little bar (same owners) devoted to sours, with 12 on tap. Double check the prices before you order because some of them are seriously expensive! It feels like a private club section of the main bar next door.

Panda Brew (Zhongjun World City East, 6 Jinhui Road) started as tiny bar (Lark Pub) which is still running, but not as Panda establishment. They then opened a larger brewpub not far from Lark, which is now closed. My research suggests it did not have a good reputation. They have since obviously ploughed a lot of money into this rather smart new bar in the CBD. I am afraid it did not do it for me… Eight taps (none of which seemed to dispense the beer on the label), 20 bottles; the beer I tried was overpriced and far too fizzy and low on flavour. The other clientele were all Chinese. I didn’t really notice the food, but they certainly do have dining. I suspect this place has not captured the hearts of the expat population.

Arrow Factory (Xindong Road No. 1) I remember; these guys once had a tiny setup in a hutong with two or three rough and ready brews. Nearby were a couple of food venues popular with foreigners; “Stuff’d” and “Vineleaf Cafe.”  They all seem to have come together in this unusual detached building which has been sympathetically converted with much charm and character, particularly the second floor bar. There is also a roof terrace with its own bar. There were 15 beers on tap, which were a bit hit and miss. I tried several tasting paddles over a couple of visits. Some were like the Arrow beers of old, and others were really rather good. The menu is excellent and includes lots of healthy items and some vegan specials. The picture of the traditional Sunday lunch (not vegan!) certainly looked the part. My pork sausages, mashed potato and rich onion gravy would not have disappointed in any pub back home.

The Great Outdoors Club (12 Fangjia Hutong) is a fun, slightly shabby bar with a student/hipster vibe. There are bars on two floors and a terrace overlooking the hutong rooftops, the noise from which apparently infuriates the neighbours. There are 14 taps and a fridge full of bottles. I enjoyed the travel photographs and curious nick-nacks on the second floor.

Naughty Monkey Craft Beer (29 Qingnian Lu) had a community feel to it, like a typical British locals’ pub. The crowd was young, trendy, fashionably dressed, cosmopolitan and clearly enjoyed good beer. The place was at once stylish and homely. I felt very comfortable, despite being neither young nor trendy. This place is well worth going out of your way to visit, but only opens in the evening. (Beerall is a few minutes’ walk away to the south, but I found it to be closed, and it looked like it may not have been open for quite some time).

El Nido at the Other Place (1 Langjia Hutong) is a relocated bar that I think has quite a following. It is smart in a shabby-chic sort of way w ith a pleasant little courtyard. It had 13 draft beers on (they have the capacity for 18). It was comparatively expensive, but an enjoyable visit with some unusual beers on offer.

Amber Hupo Craft Beer (24 Beibing Masi Hutong) was not open when it was supposed to be, which always irritates… I returned later. This very small bar has 14 taps. The one I had was poor and expensive for what it was. There are better places I think, but having looked back at my photos, perhaps I judged it harshly, late on a wet night. I might visit again the next time I am in Beijing.

NBeer (1F Huguo Xintiandi, Huguosi Street) was a favourite of mine back in the day, with at least 30 taps and a very, very wide selection of superior bottled beers from all over the world. I was infuriated to find it closed on my final day (when it was supposed to be open), but from what I could see through the glass, little has changed. It is certainly worth trying and if they still do their basket of mixed kebabs, look no further for something to eat.

Commune Reserve (1F Beijing Guanghua International, 6 Xidawang Lu) is a stylish and rather large new bar, set over two floors with a vaulted brick ceiling and enormous windows. Without doubt a fine establishment that will do well (impressive food menu and plenty to drink apart from beer), but the beer selection and quality disappointed, as did the endlessly confused service, which seemed to struggle with the concept of three people having a couple of beers each, and could not marry the beer on their tedious ordering app with what was actually on behind the bar. I judge it harshly perhaps, for it is no match for the Shanghai branch which is one of my favourite craft beer bars in the country.

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