Born in Syria but raised in Sweden, co-owner (one of three)of Dubai Ali Alkalih is quick to show his grand designs for a future look, if business goes well, that is; as almost an apology for the present decor (a hotchpotch of styles) inherited from the hotel which it occupies.
In a wing off the lobby of The Mandarin, one of Nanjing’s oldest hotels; its incumbency in Fuzimiao implies a status of national treasure, albeit a slightly unloved one. Indeed, Dubai also acts as the hotel’s lobby bar, but that stalwart keeps up a semi-dependable footfall.
We should be quick to note, however, that it is early days; Dubai was opened as recently as 1st August, and that the real point, is the food. The Nanjinger was quick to order a yoghurt and cucumber salad (¥28), French fries with lemon and garlic (¥38), mini mixed appetizers that comprised three dips; hummus, eggplant with sesame sauce and chili (¥78), followed by eggplant Maqluba with lamb (¥72) and a mixed BBQ of kebabs (¥68).
The quality, taste and authenticity are all second to none, while also making for a refreshing change for the tastebuds from the lack in variety on Nanjing’s foreign menus eclipsed by all to often by nearby Shanghai.
The kebabs of beef, lamb and chicken stand out (no pork is served at Dubai), but only just, as a nod to their succulence, while the rice, lamb and eggplant dish (nuts too, to those with allergies) is worthy of extra mention as the only dish really representative of the wealthy city from which Dubai derives its moniker.
While The Nanjinger’s visit was for a late and extended belly filling Sunday lunch (just the way we like it), we were convinced by claims that it really hots up on a weekend evening. Cue the live music and belly dancers. Outside, observing what little there remains of old Nanjing wander by from the west facing patio that offers generous seating is an excellent and invigorating antidote to watching the rich and supposedly fashionable strut their stuff along the wide boardwalks (as they would likely be termed elsewhere) of Zhongshan Lu in Xinjiekou.
All meat is Halal. Dubai is located in the Mandarin Hotel in Fuzimiao at 9 Zhuang Yuanjing, off Jiankang Lu.
