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Beijing Imperial Sophistication in a Tiny Package

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Have you ever just wished Chinese restaurants would, like, put in a tiny bit of effort in when it came to decor? Why the white washed walls and hospital lights? A lick of an earthy-coloured, wall paint, some candles and soft music playing in the back ground would make quite a difference to your local Chinese dining experience.

While Chinese food is without a doubt addictively delicious, dining out is not always fun. Most would argue that this is just the Chinese way, and for most people it is. But for some, atmosphere, cleanliness and food quality are most important too. So, if it is good-quality, Chinese food in beautifully classy and clean surroundings that you so crave while here in Nanjing, then look no further than That Small House.

This restaurant really is like no other in the city; while its Dianping description states “Beijing-styled food”, this is only the half of it. The locale specialises in Imperial Cuisine, as in, that which the Emperors and Empresses of yesteryear tucked into during their time. As Beijing still serves as the nation’s capital and was the home of China’s last emperor, the much overlooked Modai Huangdi, or Puyi, the best culinary delicacies from around the nation always ended up on the imperial table, rendering that dish a part of the “Beijing Cai” conglomerate.

The Nanjinger was given access to the restaurant’s wood fired duck oven, where succulent-looking ducks hung roasting on hooks over a crackling fire. Perhaps too much time spent in the southern capital meant our critic’s taste for drier meat stood out superior to the duck at That Small House, which was rather on the fatty and oily side, although the skin was nice and crispy.

Walking through the entrance of That Small House, one is greeted with a Ming courtyard style setup; while there is space for cosy couples around the edges of the court, tables run up and down the middle with wait staff meandering in between. Young Chinese occupied the space in and around the court; their tables littered with empty bottles of beer, wine, bones and watermelon skins; signs of a good meal if ever there were.

Should privacy be what you are after, then a trip upstairs offers exactly that. Occupying the whole floor and shaped in a traditional square with bathrooms in the center, private rooms flank all four sides. The whole restaurant smells like a clean hotel, with attention to detail in every corner coming  as a breath of fresh air when it comes to local dining.

People are happily laughing and joking with each other behind the closed doors to each room. Large and small circular tables sit inside themed rooms; each theme following that set by the painting on the wall. Hall paintings depict emperors, while we were told that, not all but some, of the artifacts in the restaurant have come from museums.

Before the duck arrived, The Nanjinger especially enjoyed beef with mushrooms and cabbage. All dishes were delectable, not too oily, not too boney and not too overly sauced; traditional, yet presented with a twist. That Small House is somewhere for everyone; couples, families, business dinners, or somewhere to bring your family when they come to visit. Its only downfall is its location, in a relatively new mall-like development that unfortunately lies off Ruanjian Dadao (Software Avenue). That makes it a 20-minute drive from downtown, or a long walk from Tianlongsi Metro station. For those living in Jiangning, you’ve struck lucky!

That Small House (那家小馆)  is located at 101, Building 3, 57 Andemen Avenue 安德门大街57楚翘城3栋101. Tel: 58520380 / 58520381

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