It’s no understatement that Nanjing, one of China’s oldest cities, wears its history proudly on its shoulders by daytime. We’ve all seen the photos and visited, probably on numerous occasions, the ancient city walls, the Confucian temple and the Ming dynasty palaces and tombs. These all reflect a storied past. But when the sun dips below the horizon, behind the western mountainous peaks, a different Nanjing comes to life; one that never seems to rest.
From the neon-lit and smoke-filled street markets to the bustling convenience stores that dot the streets and the hum of the midnight delivery bikes; Nanjing thrives as a 24-hour city, where time seems to lose its boundaries.
Behind the city’s perpetual motion are the people who keep it alive after dark: the night owls. Night-shift workers are the backbone of this unyielding rhythm of the post-dusk fast life. To understand this nocturnal world, I spoke to two of these night owls, each revealing a unique perspective on a city that never sleeps.
Mr. Wang, Delivery Driver
Shift: 19:00 – 05:00
Delivery drivers zip through the dimly lit streets, ferrying those late-night cravings to homes and to those burning the midnight oil in offices around the city.
“I’ve been a delivery driver now for 5 years, and nights are my busiest time”, Mr Wang tells me waiting outside a BBQ restaurant for a customer’s order. Mr Wang explains that food deliveries peak after 10p.m. when late-night workers, partygoers and university students place their orders. “It’s not just noodles and fried rice; people want bubble tea, fresh fruit, 卤味 and even hot pot late into the night. They love the convenience.”
I asked him about the challenges briefly, knowing that we were pressed for time, he smiled wryly. “Rain is the worst. You can’t ride fast, and road can be quite slippery. But what can I do? Each delivery is money for my family.”
Food delivery apps like Meituan and Ele.me are essential to the city’s after-hours culinary cravings. With a few beeps from his phone, Mr Wang zips off into the night on his e-bike; boxes of BBQ sticks in-hand, with the faint glow of his phone lighting his face.
Miss Zhang, Convenience Store Attendant
Shift: 22:00 – 08:00
Behind the counter of a 7/11, Miss Zhang rearranges shelves of snacks, waiting for the night crowd to descend.
“The quietest time is between 03:00 and 04:00, but before that it can be non stop, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.”
Miss Zhang has only worked the night shift for a couple of months now. “At night, our usual customers are delivery drivers, couples looking for midnight snacks and drinks, even those leaving the nearby bars buying water and coffee to sober up.”
I asked her about the difficulties of working the night shift. “It can get lonely and quite boring sometimes, especially after midnight. There’s always a fear that something could happen, but I’m learning to stay alert. Coffee helps me stay awake and I can use my phone to keep in contact with friends that are still awake.” Working the night shift isn’t easy, but Miss Zhang tells me she has started to recognise the regular customers, even if they only come in for a few minutes at a time.
From delivery drivers racing against time and navigating the city’s quiet hours to the store attendants connecting with and serving their community, these night owls are the lifeblood of Nanjing’s 24-hour rhythm; a city that never sleeps.
