Evocative for many of childhood memories, street food is perhaps at its very heart a comfort. Deep down, we know the chances are it’s phenomenally bad for us, but tough times call for tough decisions. These are the moments best addressed only through the satisfying of fundamental cravings.
Therefore, so as to precisely that which we desire deepest, The Nanjinger has this month turned to its dear patrons for answers. And as you would expect, this publication’s readership are at times an eclectic bunch! For we eschew Confucius Snacks; they’re for tourists. Who on Earth would choose those when one could devour a chicken embryo??
Such a sentiment is shared by reader Kris Zhu, for example. Of the so-called “Lucky Eggs”, (旺鸡蛋 / 活珠子), Zhu, who works for Ford in Nanjing and is also partial to some good old fashioned BBQ, says, “This is very very Nanjing and I just love it!!!”
Zhu is referring to the fetus of a chicken, unhatched, feathers and all.
“When I was in middle school, my classmate took me to a little stand near the school where she introduced this to me. I was very scared to see the unmatured chick and the feather，and I just left it in the bin. But she strongly recommended it to me, and I just gave a second try…. I told my mum when I got home, ‘Please buy some 活珠子 from time to time, I love it so much!'”.
Zhu’s fetal craving is shared by Sun Xing, coordinator of Clumsy Dad Workshop, who points out that stalls selling the delicacy today are harder to find; with some using stale or low-quality eggs.
Sun only trusts a few select vendors, suggesting in particular the stall by Nanhu that used to be run by an old lady, where her daughter now sells partially hatched eggs (maodan; 毛蛋).
Fetus is One Thing; Potato another
Then there is Ali Qadir, studying at Nanjing University of Aeronautics & Astronautics, who has a thing for potatoes. While there is nothing wrong in that of course, Qadir’s thing in particular is “金陵黄金甲土豆”, roughly translated as “Jinling Golden Armour Potatoes”.
Of the street-food specialty, Qadir says, “The taste is so good. The way it’s sliced ‘zigzag’ is very special and the ‘ayi’ [阿姨], who fries it, is indeed a pro. I always feel nostalgic while trying it. It takes me back to memories of my childhood”.
Recognising that potatoes are, well, everywhere, Qadir’s go to for his treasured potato is the Yiwu Market (江宁义乌店) in Nanjing’s Jiangning District. He says, “[They] always make me ride my e-bike for almost 10 KM, no matter it’s raining cats and dogs or a typhoon!”.
Noodles, Noodles; My Kingdom for a Bowl of Noodles
Podcaster and freelance academic advisor Wu Zeyuan knows a thing or two about noodles, specifically “Liangfen”, or “transparent noodle salad”, in the traditional Nanjing style.
She says, “Liangfen can be found all over the country, but the traditional Nanjing version is a local speciality. The noodles are finely shaved from a chunk of gelled pea starch and seasoned with sweetened vinegar and finely diced pickles. To me, it’s the perfect snack; satisfying your appetite without making you too full for your next meal”.
Wu also intimates that the best examples of Liangfen Nanjing has to offer are to be found at “Huangqinji” (黄勤记) in Laomendong, or at “Fulinxuan” (富临轩) along Jiqingmen Avenue.
Lest thee Not Forget the Old Man with the Wonton
The famed Chinese staple also has a place in the heart of several readers of The Nanjinger, notably, Gong Xusheng who is a partner with Beijing Kangda Law firm; and Harold who was not born in Nanjing but has lived here for 30 years.
Gong points to his favourite street food that is served up at the Gao Gang Li Old Man Wonton stall (高岗里老头馄饨; see pic), while Harold remembers, “There was a Nanjing dialect rap song published about 20 years ago which is titled “Drink Wonton”（喝馄饨）. It was quit a sensational song at that time. I think it is the first rap song I know, and it is the time when rap music just started to be known by the public in China.
“To me, street food is not just about the food itself and its taste, it also links to the history and culture of the city”.
