The biggest private garden in Nanjing was forgotten for decades until this Labour Day, 1 May 2016, when over 8,000 visitors lined up to witness “the most beautiful garden in the legend”, Yu Yuan (愚园), come back to life.
Located west of Zhonghua Men with a history stretching back to the Qing dynasty, Yu Yuan was once the private establishment of Hu Enxie, the former governor of Suzhou who left his official post to better serve his mother in this garden dedicated to her. The garden was given the name “Yu” (愚), meaning “foolishness”, a humble expression in Chinese culture derived from the saying of the ancient Taoist philosopher Laozi; “the true wisdom lies in those who appears to be slow-witted” (大智若愚), but was also known to locals as Hu’s Family Garden (胡家花园).
During its glory days, the garden boasted a total of 70 magnificent attractions with 36 originals and 34 more added by its second owner, Hu’s adopted son, covering a total area of 30,000 sqm.
However, during the various warfare of the 20th century, the garden suffered serious damage and was dilapidated in its later days. A renowned architect Tong Jun wrote in his book, “Gardens of Jiangnan” (江南园林志), in 1947 when he visited Yu Yuan, “there were only a few houses and willow trees left. The small pond stunk of decadence”.
The renovation project started in May 2011, aiming to fully restore the garden to its original layout and historical appearance. With a total area 33,600 sqm. and 32 recovered attractions, the new Yu Yuan constitutes two gardens, an inside and an outside one. The outside garden is made up of hills and the 6,000 sqm. Yu lake; the inside garden features rockeries and various halls.
“It is the most distinctive Nanjing style architecture,” said Professor Chen Wei, the renovation project director from Southeast University, “simple and elegant”.
Take a turn from Jiqing Lu (集庆路) to Mingyang Jie (鸣羊街), then walk some two hundred metres and you will come to the front gate. Out of Hu’s intention to stay low-key, the garden looked just like any normal local residence from the outside. At only one door wide, it is very easy for one to miss this magnificent secret garden behind its humble disguise.
The moment you open the narrow door of the Yu Yuan, a secret and magical world of the past lift its veil. From now on, you share life with nobility. Firstly, you will see the living area Mingzetang (明泽堂), where Hu received powerful officials of the Qing dynasty such as Li Hongzhang; Dr. Sun Yet Sen also came to this place to say goodbye to his friends upon leaving Nanjing after resigning the Presidency. Then you come to the front porch Bushantang, built by Hu’s adopted son, a mine owner who was known for his generosity. Here you can see an exhibition of the Hu family. Then at Chunhuntang (春晖堂) where Hu’s mother used to read Buddhist Scriptures, there is another exhibition of the national intangible cultural heritage Thangka Art.
“The biggest difference between Nanjing Gardens and Suzhou ones is that our garden often makes the best of the existing landscape such as hills and lakes while Suzhou gardens boast the intricacy of manmade sceneries”, continued Professor Chen. Those who are familiar with Suzhou gardens would find Yu Yuan’s inside garden similar to the style of the “Lion Grove Garden” (狮子林), where rocks are piled up skillfully and ingeniously, most of them looking like lions in different postures. Thus Yu Yuan was also dubbed “the Lion Grove Garden of Nanjing”.
Chen also notes, “Another aspect of Nanjing Garden is that it is used to meet daily life needs as well as serving the purpose of pure leisure”. For example in Chunshuiting (“Spring Bedroom”), a bed is situated by a window with a bird’s eye view of the lake, showing how relaxing it would be to just lie there and do some reading on a lazy spring day.
“I’m 71 years old. When I was young I visited my relatives here”, said visitor Chen Xiuying who has been living in the old southwest of Nanjing for her entire life. The renovation of Yu Yuan is also part of the overall rebuilding project of the southwest part of the city; “The neighbourhood was in a terrible condition back then. I didn’t expect I would live to see this old garden return to its glory”.
Find the Yu Yuan (愚园) at: 2 Hujia Hua Yuan, off Jiqing Lu, Qinhuai district (秦淮区集庆路胡家花园2号)
Entrance fee: ¥20; free for holders of the annual pass and children under 6
Opening hours: Summer (May-Sept) 9:00-18:00; Winter (October-April) 9:00-17:00
