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Names is for Tombstones, Baby! But not Maybe Nanjing’s Top

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  • Initially skeptical of Fennel & Laurel due to its pretentious name, The Nanjinger was pleasantly surprised by exceptional carrot juice.  
  • Fennel & Laurel, a Nanjing-born brand since 2019, has expanded to six locations, including Wuxi, Suzhou, and Hangzhou.  
  • The café offers bilingual menus, all-day brunch, and unique dessert timing options, with standout dishes like the Mexico Simmer Spicy Brisket Sandwich.  
  • Despite limited kids’ menu options, service is efficient, and English magazines add a quirky touch to the experience

With such a hideously-pretentious name, it was inevitable that The Nanjinger’s inert sense of inverted snobbery would kick in, advising to steer well clear. 

But then one afternoon, we found ourselves with half a thirsty hour on our hands and a phone even more thirsty for a power outlet. Cue, it has to be said, a glass of the finest carrot juice we’ve ever had. And, a note to self later which included a dollop of self criticism; a return visit for an extended, and hopefully repeat, experience. We would not be disappointed.

This was our introduction to Fennel & Laurel. That was some time ago and ever since, the awkward pairing has become something of an eye worm, in other not-so-distant cities included.

Despite our discomfort in the name, it turns out the moniker is derived from the condiment and the shrub of the same, and that, best of all, with its debut in 2019, this is a Nanjing brand through and through, where a sixth location has recently opened. Fennel & Laurel outlets are now elsewhere to be found in Wuxi, Suzhou and across the Zhejiang border in Hangzhou.

The Nanjinger - Names is for Tombstones, Baby! But not Maybe Nanjing’s Top

Three branches in Nanjing also feature their own bakery, although The Nanjinger eyed the one in Kingmo with much suspicion for its signs of floss and a degree of sugariness.

For the non-Chinese speakers, a helpful start upon scanning the code on each table is the bilingual option to select dine in/pre order, self pick up or takeaway. Likewise a well-thumbed paper menu (read “book”), albeit devoid of prices and many of the actual dishes available.

And when it comes to ordering dessert, a stroke of genius offers the option to choose it to be served with the meal or afterward.

Brunch is happily served all day, and so it came to be, with The Nanjinger opting for Mexico Simmer Spicy Brisket Sandwich (¥58) and beef quesadillas (¥79); Both outstanding. That carrot juice by the way, the cheapest of those on offer, was ¥32.

But it was a thumbs down for the kids’ (read “toddlers”) menu, amounting to just two dishes resembling airplane food.

The Nanjinger - Names is for Tombstones, Baby! But not Maybe Nanjing’s Top

Service, though, was pleasant, efficient and quick. A shame in one way; little time to peruse the English copies of “Unique Homes” and “The World of Interiors” displayed in a wall-mounted rack.

You got that right; a Nanjing brand going so far as to offer English magazines. Whoever would have thought of such a thing?

Fennel & Laurel is located at B158, Kingmo Mall, 1698 Shuanglong Avenue, Jiangning 江宁区双龙大道1698号景枫中心再地广场负一楼. Tel 87110326

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