The sequel is a perilous temptation of modern cinema. Can it ever recapture the original’s magic? Can it still move things forward or is it just a cash in for us hapless punters? We’ve all been stung by a sequel. The expectations can be too much or the execution too heavy. These concerns can chew at the thoughts of even the most intrepid bar explorers of the Nanjing drinks scene.
Roommate, tucked away in The Central of Hexi, trades on the name of its predecessor in Xinjiekou. It provides much of the same menu and ambience with the twist of the proprietor’s other establishments; Unparalleled and The Hermit. A long-time fan of the former in Pukou and frequenter of the latter in Gulou, the promise of craft-beer taps and an enhanced-dining experience made my trip here inevitable.
Its location, nestled in an arcade directly opposite the entrance to the Hanyuelou Hotel, is initially difficult to spot, but some brewing equipment and classic 20’s lighting are the markers you need. Passing the velvet curtains, you feel the essence of a speakeasy as you enter a moodily-lit bar area flanked with private rooms should you feel the need for an even more furtive dining experience. Guests are met at the door or greeted from the bar.
To speak of the service staff, there is one of especial merit within the Nanjing bar scene. Young, much like his name, is a youthful Chinese barman with an impeccable passion, knowledge and taste for drinks. His was the role to assemble the cocktail menu for Roommate and he has performed this with aplomb. From classics to modern concoctions, you can be assured of a great serve and, of course, great service. He is an excellent English speaker and will happily discuss the menu, providing recommendations for discerning palates and preferences.
It is a pleasure to sit at the bar in spacious leather armchairs and watch the artistry of the serve (purchasing a few cocktails usually brings a complimentary shot!) and to enjoy the atmosphere with a great blend of western music harking from the 1920s up to the very latest of releases.
The bar is lit in its dim manner but tastefully so. Sufficiently lit to enjoy the tasteful décor and, most importantly, to eat. The menu invokes the greatest hits of Roommate Xinjiekou but reduced to provide a more casual dining experience.
The chicken wings and Nanjing Duck spring rolls are two of the highlights of the starter menu, whilst the pork knuckle vies for the limelight alongside an excellent Beef Wellington and a mouth-watering porterhouse steak. The sides include some of my favourite fries in Nanjing along with some well-prepared vegetable dishes.
There is, of course, the craft beer to further enhance your experience. Much like the other two bars in the chain, the Unparalleled Brewery is a focus of the 12-beer offering, Cold Eyes and Way of the Hundred Fists being two of my personal favourites. Other offerings from around China featured in regular rotation to provide variety to each visit. Should the Yunnan Coffee Stout feature then I firmly recommend you sample.
So can a sequel really live up to an original or is it always another cash in? Roommate takes the name of the dining side of this company’s establishments and blends in a much more refined view of Cocktails and Craft Beer from their more alcohol-facing establishments.
Roommate’s smokiness and sometimes crowded nature may stop us at declaring this on the level of Godfather 2 in terms of sequels. However, I would certainly take it over the latest Matrix movie in a heartbeat. Be sure to pop down. A classy experience with a speakeasy vibe that, for me, is worth replaying on a monthly basis.
Roomate is located 1F3018, The Central, 237 Jiangdong Zhong Lu 江东中路 237号中央商场1F3018. Tel: 52807279.
