The night of 1912 is not quiet. The noisy bars, the colourful Ferris wheel, the flashing neon and fashionable people make for a splendid city scene. Yet Shi Wang Fu stands as still as the nearby lake’s waters, displaying an elegant Chinese air.  A clean and tidy marble facade sports an ivory palette of colour under a soft, white light. The golden carved door, the smiling waiters who receive you, the name of the restaurant in beautiful calligraphy, the red carpet that stretches deep into the interior; all display the...

Situated on the edge of the busy business district in Jiangning, this branch of a chain of restaurants stands quietly. I've never been too interested in chains, because I don't think they guarantee the quality of the food and so I almost walked on by, but its slogan made stop in my tracks. "Representative brand of Jiangsu Huaiyang cuisine" I pride myself on being a person who has grown up eating Huaiyang cuisine for more than 20 years, so I was really curious about the level of this so-called "representative brand"....

We all know what the larger Fuzimiao area is like in the lantern season. Much as we are proud of it, we often have to avoid that area due to the crowd. It would be nice if there is a quieter corner, or in Xin Qiji’s (辛弃疾; 1140-1207) words, “Somewhere the lantern lights are sparse”, somewhere we can enjoy a bowl of yuanxiao at ease. That is why I am writing this with mixed feelings; not yet known to many, there is indeed such a place right inside the Laomendong...

Have you ever thought of visiting the Confucius Temple (Fuzimiao; 夫子庙) area and sampling some local cuisine there? If so, you might have already been warned off by your Nanjing friends.  It is puzzling because the area indeed had a reputation for delicious food. These days, however, too many restaurants and shops in that area offer nothing but overpriced, poor-quality food, with the knowledge that most of their customers are tourists who will not come back anyway. One may even argue that the locals will not eat anything in the...