Ordinarily, it’s no contest that I’d choose culture and cuisine over a nice beach and agreeable climate. Yet, with direct flights to Sanya from Lukou at around ¥500 each way promising pastures greener in just over 3 hours, it wasn’t exactly a hard sell to someone who has spent the last 6 years living a stone’s throw from the perpetual downpour that is Wales. And to my surprise, the island of Hainan was so much more than just a pretty face with a nice tan.

通常情况下，我会选择文化和美食而不是漂亮的海滩和宜人的气候。 然而，从鹿口直飞三亚的航班，每程约500日元，有望在短短3个多小时内让牧场更绿，对于那些在过去6年里生活在威尔士的持续的持续大雪中的人来说，这并不难。 令我惊讶的是，海南岛不仅仅是一张漂亮的脸蛋和漂亮的棕褐色。

With vibrant colours on display from almost every plant species, immediately as you leave the airport and head towards the centre, you develop a sense of just how well kept Sanya is and how much effort has been put in to maintain its beauty. Though small by Chinese standards, Sanya in its high season (around October to April) is a busy mishmash of full-time locals, northern pensioners seeking sunnier climes and holidaymakers, principally those from all over China but also a good handful from Russia. It can seem a tad touristic at first glance, but keep an open mind and you’ll be combing tranquil beaches and eating only the freshest seafood at local hideouts in no time. 

几乎每个植物物种都展示了鲜艳的色彩，当你离开机场并前往市中心时，你会立即感受到三亚的维护有多好，以及为保持其美丽付出了多少努力。 虽然按照中国的标准来说很小，但在旺季（大约10月至4月），三亚是一个繁忙的混杂燴，有全职当地人、寻求更阳光的北方养老金领取者和度假者，主要是来自中国各地的人，但也有少数来自俄罗斯。 乍一看，它可能看起来有点旅游，但保持开放的心态，你会在很多时间漫步在宁静的海滩上，在当地避风港吃到最新鲜的海鲜。

Although the city is better known these days for its lush resorts, I kept costs down with a week at Sanya Backpackers, a well-located, leafy hostel with friendly management and a superb clientele forever passing through its doors. Dorms come in at around ¥50 and private doubles ¥150 a night; the rooms are clean and cosy, but you’d be spending most of your time outside anyway. If you’re looking for something a bit more upmarket or family-friendly you can easily find double rooms in 3-star hotels from ¥200 a night.

虽然如今这座城市以其郁郁葱葱的度假胜地而闻名，但我在三亚背包客酒店住了一周，这是一家位置优越、绿树成荫的旅馆，管理友好，拥有一流的客户，永远经过它的大门。 宿舍每晚50日元左右，私人双人间每晚150日元；房间干净舒适，但无论如何，你大部分时间都会在外面度过。 如果您正在寻找更高档或更适合家庭的东西，您可以轻松地在每晚200日元的三星级酒店找到双人间。

With the ISA World Longboarding Championships having taken place in Riyue Bay in the east last year, Hainan’s beach scene has found itself in an interesting transition from little hidden gems to full-scale surf resorts, making it an emerging player in the surfing world. A 45-minute bus ride will take you to Houhaijiao, a gorgeous peninsula with great views from either side, mostly populated by a handful of locals who don’t take life all too seriously. Certainly a great spot for beginners, but more seasoned surfers may wish to move further afield to Wanning, where the waves offer more of a challenge.

随着去年ISA世界长板锦标赛在东部的日月湾举行，海南的海滩场景发现自己从隐藏的小宝石到大型冲浪度假村的有趣过渡，使其成为冲浪界的新兴参与者。 乘坐45分钟的巴士将带您到后海角，这是一个美丽的半岛，从两边都可以看到美景，大部分是少数当地人，他们不太重视生活。 当然，对于初学者来说，这是一个很棒的地方，但更有经验的冲浪者可能希望搬到更远的万宁，那里的海浪带来了更多的挑战。

If instead you’d rather just swim and relax, you can avoid the crowds and loud music at Dadonghai and head towards the Coconut Dream Corridor (Yemengchanglang), a long stretch of beach that reaches the airport were you to go far enough. Jump off the bus anywhere along the way to find a palm tree-lined shore and just a handful of people with whom to rub elbows. It also offers unspoilt views of the picturesque Sanya sunset. 

相反，如果你只想游泳和放松，你可以避开大东海的人群和嘈杂的音乐，前往椰子梦走廊（叶梦长廊），这是一条通往机场的长滩，如果你走得足够远。 沿着沿途的任何地方跳下公共汽车，找到一个棕榈树林立的海岸和少数可以与之擦肩而过的人。 它还提供了风景如画的三亚日落的未受破坏的景色。

Perhaps the most striking of the many sights to see and excursions to be made is Nanshan Temple, complete with Tang Dynasty revival architecture and the Guanyin Sea Statue, standing at a dizzying 108 metres. Its three faces, two of which face the sea with the other overlooking the park, are said to be symbols of blessing and protection for the people of Sanya.

也许在众多景点和游览中，最引人注目的是南山寺，它拥有唐代复兴建筑和观音海雕像，矗立在令人眼花缭乱的108米处。 它的三面，其中两面朝大海，另一面俯瞰公园，据说是三亚人民祝福和保护的象征。

Once the heat of the day has simmered away, there’s nothing better than taking a walk around the lush greenery in one of Sanya’s many idyllic scenic areas. A trip to Luhuitou park will take you up a gently winding path to a colossal monument of a deer looking over its shoulder (the rough translation of Luhuitou) set in a tastefully-decorated area. There’s a shuttle service included in the ticket price, but definitely do the half-hour walk if you feel up to it. Keep your eyes peeled and you might see families of wild macaques expertly manoeuvring the trees; maintain a safe distance though as they can just as professionally pinch your belongings! Luhuitou is perhaps most popular at sunset and into the evening, where it gives stunning views out onto the sprawl below. It’s really a special sight, with the towers on the manmade Phoenix Island giving an unforgettable display as their lights dance off the water. 

一旦白天的炎热消失，没有什么比在三亚众多田园诗般的风景区之一的郁郁葱葱的绿色植物中散步更好的了。 去Luhuitou公园旅行将带您走上一条缓缓蜿蜒的小路，来到一个巨大的鹿纪念碑（Luhuitou的粗略翻译），坐落在一个装饰高雅的区域。 票价中包含了班车服务，但如果你覺得可以的話，一定要走半个小时。 睁大眼睛，你可能会看到野生猕猴家族熟练地操纵树木；但要保持安全距离，因为它们可以像专业地捏住你的财物一样！ 卢惠头也许在日落和傍晚时分最受欢迎，在那里可以看到下面蔓延的壮丽景色。 这真是一个特别的景象，人造凤凰岛上的塔楼在水面上跳舞，呈现出令人难忘的表演。

Sanya’s life-giver, however, is its fruit. At every turn of the head you’ll find the freshest pineapples, the juiciest mangoes and grapes almost the size of table tennis balls. Had a few shandies at the Dolphin bar the night before? A fresh coconut should set you right for the day and shouldn’t cost more than ¥8. Prices can vary a lot in Sanya, so it’s a good idea to use an app, such as Dianping, to find the best restaurants and avoid the tourist traps; a good rule of thumb would be to steer clear of any neon Cyrillic signage. 

然而，三亚的生命是它的果实。 每次转头，你都会发现最新鲜的菠萝、最多汁的芒果和葡萄，几乎和乒乓球一样大。 前一天晚上在海豚酒吧吃了几个shandies吗？ 一个新鲜的椰子应该适合你，价格不应该超过8元。 三亞的價格可能差異很大，所以使用Dianping等應用程式找到最好的餐廳並避開遊客陷阱是個好主意；一個好的經驗法則是避開任何霓虹燈西里爾字母標誌。

Hainan can be accessed visa-free for 30 days for citizens of 59 countries, which makes Sanya an ideal spot to reconnect with friends or family who wish to avoid China’s painstaking visa application process. It is also recommended to plan a Sanya trip well in advance because of how much there is on offer. Not that organised? Your accommodation should provide a full list of tours.

59个国家的公民可以免签证进入海南30天，这使得三亚成为与希望避免中国艰苦的签证申请流程的朋友或家人重新联系的理想场所。 也建议提前计划三亚之旅，因为提供的东西太多了。 没那么有条理？ 您的住宿应该提供完整的旅游清单。

[Photos by the author, Sebastian Koller & Wu Guohua]

[作者Sebastian Koller和吴国华的照片]