You know it’s business when morsels of pink tuna piled onto a seaweed crisp come carved directly from an entire beast that’s sat chilling at the bar in front of us. Added to that are cubes of sweet mango that, at this rate, we might as well assume were plucked from the tropical hats of the lift attendant. This is the stuff we’re talking about when we talk about Flair.
Sixty-two flights up, Flair is at the top of the Ritz-Carlton in Xinjiekou and at the peak of its game in Nanjing. The rooftop bar is split between an ambient-lit inside area, complete with a wine fridge wall, wood panelling and coffee table books; and outside, which feels fresh enough to be the open air, but is in fact encased in floor to ceiling glass and a (sometimes rather drippy) steel structure that reaches to the top of the building. There are plans, we are told, to fix that.
It’s opening night when we visit, so naturally they have pulled out all the stops. There are photographers side stepping and squatting, and professional and smartly dressed staff and dancers who periodically shimmy through the bar to whip up the atmosphere. To drink is a choice of cocktails or champagne so, as the dedicated reviewers that we are, we try both.
First up is the Gentleman’s. A mixture of tequila, whisky, vermouth, Frangelico liqueur and Aperol, it’s full-bodied and strong. The cocktail is served inside a glass dome that is lifted to some fanfare, creating a spill of apple-wood smoke that has our neighbours’ eyeballing. For the seasoned drinker, you’ll fall head over heels; for the lightweight, you might fall over.
On the lighter end of the scale is a very pretty purple number. Invented by Violet and mixed with violet, it also contains Cointreau, lemon juice and pea-infused vodka. I’m not usually a fan of floral cocktails, but this one is satisfyingly crisp and not overtly sweet. A great ball of ice protrudes like the yolk of a sunny side up, which I’m all down for at first, until half way through I’m having to balance it against my nose in a precarious drinking manoeuvre. But these are petty complaints from people with big noses.
The Ritz Kiss, a gin-based drink with raspberry, jasmine and elderflower is not really my thing, but it clearly is for others. Two infused gins; one with plum, another with local Yu Hua tea; are a nod to Nanjing. If it’s champagne you’re after, you have 26 types to choose from.
Altogether it’s a great evening. The head barman, Tural, is a wizard behind the bar, as gentlemanly as his cocktails, hurling ice cubes with perfection into glasses filled with delicious and unusual treats. The view is fantastic, but one can’t help thinking it would be better appreciated in the warmer months and the toilets are suitably swish. The Southeast Asian canapes were a bit of a mix bag for me, but the excellent drinks mean we leave cheery. If you’ve something to celebrate then do it with Flair!
Flair is located at the Ritz-Carlton, 18 Zhongshan Road, and is open daily from 17:30-01:00.
