There is a Chinese saying that goes, “Nothing feels better than lying down; nothing tastes better than dumplings.”
The problem is, not all dumplings are created equal. Some of them taste absolutely better than others. This holds true even if we suppose they all have the same fillings, because the wrappers and the way they are cooked already make considerable differences.
In my view, the better types of dumplings are fried dumplings. That should not sound too controversial, because, let’s face it, oil is the secret to deliciousness.
Yet again, fried dumplings are made differently all over China. They have different names, too. The most common type, known as “jianjiao” (煎饺), meaning “pan-fried dumpling”, is fried on the bottom and then steamed by adding water into the pan. Another widely used term is “guotie” (锅贴), literarily translated as “potstickers”. This is a confusing one. Sometimes it is used interchangeably with jianjiao, while sometimes it refers to a type of rectangular-shaped dumpling with unsealed edges. In some other places, northern Jiangsu for example, guotie is nothing close to dumpling at all, but flat bread stuck on the side of a wok and cooked along with a stew.
There must be some fried dumplings that taste even better than others. To find the best of the best in the world of Chinese dumplings, we need to go a step further.
No, actually, we do not need to go any further. The best type of fried dumplings, I would argue, is right here in our very own city. It is the only type of dumpling that can be legitimately called guotie in the eyes of Nanjing foodies.
There are many reasons why this Nanjing type of guotie tastes better than other ordinary fried dumplings, but here is the first and foremost reason: it is deep fried.
I’m not saying more oil means more deliciousness, but you know that is often the truth. If you don’t believe in oil, how about the following: it is crispy on the outside, soft and juicy on the inside, filled with beef and beef only.
Anyway, you have been warned. We don’t expect the tastiest food to be the healthiest at the same time, do we?
To a native Nanjing foodie, said features are not yet enough to justify these dumplings as authentic guotie. There are many other criteria to be met. Hot water must be used when mixing the dough for extra softness. The wrappers should be a bit thicker than normal dumplings to allow different textures from the outside to the inside. The meat filling should taste sweet and salty. Their shape should be elongated like a new moon. Cooking should be done in a huge, black iron pan, and oil should be added twice. Speaking of oil, a Chinese type of canola oil is the only acceptable option, one with a stronger flavour and of a darker colour.
You can find Nanjing-style guotie anywhere in the city, but you can’t talk about it without mentioning Qijiawan.
For this is the magic word used in Nanjing to grant authenticity to fried dumplings. Wherever you open a food-delivery app in this city, you will find one or more fried dumpling restaurants within delivery distance that claim themselves to be somehow originated from Qijiawan.
The magic of Qijiawan is an Islamic one. Nanjing has been home of Muslim communities for centuries. Before the founding of PRC, thousands of Muslim households resided along the banks of the Inner Qinhuai River. At the centre of the neighbourhood was Qijiawan, about 1.5 km southwest of Xinjiekou, where one would find butcheries, eateries, leather shops and spice markets that attracted both Muslim and Han customers.
Food was the main reason for Han residents from other parts of the city to visit the Muslim quarter. In the old days, they would get up early to buy some beef and mutton from the butcheries in Qijiawan, and have some fried dumplings as breakfast in the eateries nearby.
Those days are gone as the area was torn down and renewed at the start of this century. For smaller eateries that specialise in dumplings, moving can be risky as they are less likely to be recognised by brand name at a different location. Only the name of Qijiawan, or the memory of it, helps to send the message that their dumplings are halal, authentic and delicious.
Fortunately, here we can still find some of the best guotie.
Liji is now the busiest place in the vicinity. It is important to look for a busy restaurant for fried dumplings, because you are guaranteed them freshly made right out of the pan. The place also has a deli that sells cooked, marinated beef by weight, good for both dining in and takeout.
If it is your first time visiting Liji, or first time trying Nanjing-style fried dumplings, next up are eight tips for a delicious, trouble-free experience.
Hire a driver or use public transportation.Parking can be a problem. Public transportation is the best if weather permits; it’s only 5 minutes walk from Zhangfuyuan Station on Metro Line 1.
Avoid busy hours, but don’t be too late. I know what’s worse than desperately looking for a seat in a packed restaurant. It’s while doing that, finding yourself stuck between tables while other people try to pass you with a tray of hot soup in their hands. If you can only go at weekends, the best time is between 13:30 and 16:30. You should be able to find a table for you and your companions, and enjoy your meal without disturbance. Even on weekdays, it is better to avoid busy hours, such as 12:00 and 17:30, but don’t be too late as they close at 19:30.
Watch how the dumplings are fried (or don’t, if you worry about fat intake). You should be able to watch this at any guotie restaurant in Nanjing. Typically, the dumplings are fried in an open kitchen facing the road, and Liji is no exception. The entire process of frying a batch of dumplings takes no more than 5 minutes. You will see that making perfect guotie requires a lot of practice and skill, and a lot of… oil. For what you are about to eat…. I hope you won’t feel guilty.
Order and pick up.In many traditional Chinese diners, you order and pay at the counter, and pick up your food from designated windows with the tickets you have received from the cashier. Liji has made it a bit easier, as you only need to pick up the guotie by yourself. For other dishes, all you have to do is give your tickets to any staff member and let them know the number of your table. They will be delivered to your table once they are ready. Another thing that Liji has made first-timer-friendly is to change the term “liang” (两; 50g) to “ke” (客; a serving), which makes more sense these days. The use of “liang” as a measure word for dumplings is a legacy of the planned-economy period. Just keep in mind that one liang, or one serving, of guotie means five pieces, which is the smallest unit you can order.
Save room for other goodies. I would recommend beef soup or beef wonton to complement your crispy dumplings. Many people also like their fried buns; similar to guotie in many ways but using leavened dough.
Use vinegar. See that vinegar bottle on your table? Use it. Your dumplings will thank you for bringing them to life. Add some chili sauce if that’s your thing.
Mind your trousers. This useful tip is from one of my dining companions. He learned it the hard way. Keep in mind that the fillings contain soup which may splatter as you bite.
In case you can’t find a seat, there is a plan B and a plan C.Looks like you have not followed Tip 2 very well. Don’t worry, you can always order takeaway. Plan C is to just walk 180 metres to the west where you will find another great guotie eatery named Caoqiao, around the corner of the Caoqiao mosque. It is not as spacious as Liji, but it’s not as busy either. It might look a bit shabby, but the inside is clean enough for some good food. Even better, you are now able to make the comparison: which place in today’s Qijiawan has the best fried dumplings?
- Liji Halal Restaurant 李记清真馆, 1 Dadingxiang 打钉巷 1号. Tel: 15205197105. Hours: 5:30-19:30, Monday to Sunday
- Caoqiao Halal Beef Dumplings 草桥清真牛肉锅贴扁食店, 11 Qijiawan 七家湾 11号. Tel: 13913904069. Hours: 5:00-19:00, Monday to Sunday
