When I came to Nanjing and settled in Pukou, I had little expectation of finding a quality bar nearby, and certainly not one with a good range of draft beer. Having visited the usual suspects in the city centre, I resigned myself to the fact I would be crossing the Yangtze every time I wanted a pint of something decent. This would mean crossing the Yangtze a lot.
So it came as a surprise and a relief to stumble across Unparalleled, a mere 15 minutes’ stroll from my apartment. I may not even have noticed it, had it not been for a number of empty kegs deposited around its outdoor seating area.
This is a local bar in both senses of the word. It is local to me, thank goodness, but it is also to some extent what the British would consider, “a local”. It is comfortable and attractive, but not pretentious or flashy. On some days, it is full soon after opening, and on other days it remains quiet. It attracts a predominantly young crowd, probably on account of its proximity to the Nanjing Tech Metro Station.
The bar staff get to know you and look after you. You feel welcome, but not unduly fussed over. You don’t mind that one day you may come in at 6 pm, to find yesterday’s glasses are still all over the bar. You certainly don’t much fancy walking to the malodorous public lavatory around the corner.
However, none of these things matter much in a local; especially your local. These things are all forgiven with the same readiness you overlook a scuff on your most comfortable and trusty shoes.
So why would the good citizens of the south side bother to come north (well, west really) to visit a Pukou “local?” The answer is beer, and good beer. Unparalleled boasts 12 taps of craft beer, some of which are changed regularly. Frank, the owner, has a brewery in the city (Unparalleled Brewing). As you might expect, a few of his are always on tap, and very good they are too.
However, there are plenty of others besides. Typically, nine or ten are Chinese and two or three are foreign. Whilst many are high in alcohol content, which is sadly typical in China, there are usually several more suitable options for those wanting to indulge in a lengthy beer session without making the next day one full of regret. Prices are reasonable compared with some of the more central bars. If you consume two pints (well, not quite pints) before 9 pm, you will be rewarded with a glass of Cold Eyes IPA, albeit a small one.
Sensibly, they do not try to do an extensive menu. The focus is on burgers. These are none too shabby and are, of course, accompanied by the ubiquitous polythene gloves, which I eschew immediately. The half dozen or so varieties available include American, Hawaiian, Sausage and Foie gras. A simple selection of sides includes fries, a sausage platter and fried pieces of chicken. The food is good value, and whilst it might be worth a trip out for a burger with a beer on the side, in my mind, it is more about a trip out for a good few beers with a burger on the side.
I have not tried the cocktails, but only because I enjoy the beer too much. Unfortunately (for some, at least), smoking is common in the bar, but at quieter times it is not such an issue. Usually at least one member of staff speaks English and menus are bilingual.
As sister pub of Hermit, this bar is well worth crossing to the north side, particularly if you like decent beer. For my money, it is better than Hermit, but then, it is my local. In fact, I think I’ll head over there right now. Which shoes to wear…? Yes, of course, the ones with the scuff. Cheers!
Unparalleled Kitchen & Bar is located at 1F, Bldg 2, Mingfa New Town Centre, 11 Pukou Avenue, Pukou.
