I had a rather curious dream. A restaurant had opened in Nanjing that had decent craft beer, and it was open all day, every day (I know, I know…). The head chef was an eccentrically bearded Chinese man whose English was spoken with a French accent as authentic as it was incongruous. I dreamt of food, a lot of food, from thin little pizzas called “flammekeuche” to poke bowls, but these were served in what appeared to be cones of giftwrap and ribbon amidst wispy clouds of white vapour.
It was a simply glorious afternoon and many ladies who walked past my outdoor table wore the colourful traditional dresses of the Han people. Beer flowed freely (from a row of 8 taps) and nobody said I had to wait until six o’clock. One flammekeuche followed another, and another. I dreamt they were so thin they were calorie free. I asked the chef to make them hotter and he was happy to oblige. With my IPA’s mouth-cooling hops and alcohol-induced bravado I felt invincible. No chilli could be too hot nor any sausage too spicy for this beery dreamer.
We like our city, but we know its limitations. So perhaps these words are a prelude to a review from a pre-lockdown visit to Shanghai? That thought would not be far from the truth, because “8 Pints Brewery” has many outlets in Shanghai that serve flammekeuche alongside some damned fine beer.
However, this was neither a dream nor a description of a venue in Shanghai. 8 Pints has come here, to Nanjing, and ours is arguably better than any of its Shanghai cousins. Why? Location, location, location…
Table Space occupies a fine building nestled in the Laomendong pedestrian area right at the foot of the city wall. I can think of few better places in Nanjing to watch the world go by with something cold and hoppy on a balmy afternoon.
The chefs can be seen hard at work in a central island bar and seating options range from well-shaded outdoor tables to bar stools, alcove benches and more formal dining tables. This civilised place has been imaginably designed and everyone will find their ideal nook. I do have one criticism though… The various bizarre accents of gaudy green plastic have absolutely no place here, nor anywhere.
The chef has worked in Bordeaux and runs a tidy kitchen. Whilst I prefer my poke in a bowl, and confit de canard in a cassoulet as opposed to a mashed potato crust (one of the more unusual signature dishes based, bizarrely, on Beef Wellington we were told), the chef and his team are certainly not without skill and many will enjoy dining here. The quartet of snails was good, the best being with traditional garlic butter, perhaps serving as a reminder that classic dishes do not need meddling with.
Minor niggles aside, this place is super! There is something for everyone, and there is no better place to drink beer in the afternoon in Nanjing. Bring me beer, bring me flammekeuche (and ideally my poke in a bowl without paper cones and dry ice) and this place really is the stuff of dreams for the discerning all-day imbiber. Talking of dreams, are those flammekeuche really calorie free? Well yes, they are… no, really! Don’t call me out on this one, just believe it. If we all believe it, it’s as good as true isn’t it?
A second branch at Hexi Wanda has opened recently. Edward warned us last month about the potential sting of a sequel. The Hexi Wanda branch stings like a very, very angry hornet. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Table Space is located 16-2 Laomendong, Qinhuai District 秦淮区老门东边营 16—2. Tel: 17116382960 / 17614252529.
