Continuing The Nanjinger’s series of classic local eateries, we present Xilaishun (西来顺), the Lanzhou beef noodle restaurant at the entrance of Nanjing University of Science and Technology that can be said to offer must-eat handmade noodles, given the more-or-less permanent queue that exists outside the door.
Setting Xilaishun’s beef noodle soup apart is the fact is made from beef bones, rendering a deliciously heavy and aromatic salt & pepper taste. The hand-pulled noodles are more chewy, and servings are extremely generous. Radish slices accompany each bowl; soaked in the soup, they become much more tasty.
Another favourite is the three mutton kebabs for ¥10 that always come bigger than the average grill. The mutton is both fatty and thin so as to be not too be greasy to taste, while the meat is also unusually tender.
In order to not be one of the many who go there for the first time and sit and wait for half an hour, all for nothing, first order food at the front desk and be given small tickets, then queue up at the meal window to hand the tickets to the waiter. The noodles will emerge first, followed by the snacks, but whatever the case, pay attention to the waiter’s calling. The exception is the mutton kebabs that are generally sent to the table.
Somewhat delightfully, the next order of business is to tell the noodle chef how thick you want them. The noodles are then pulled bowl by bowl. About ten slices of dried beef go in and then it’s up to you to add spicy sauce, coriander, chopped green onion, or all three, as to your preference.
Xilaishun has been in existence for nearly 30 years; its good reputation borne out by the many customers who have been eating there for decades. A former student of the nearby Nanjing Sport Institute who graduated 4 years ago told The Nanjinger, “I come here several times a month. It is very interesting that every few years, Xilaishun is redecorated. Every time afterwards, the price of the noodles has increased by ¥2. I used to eat them for ¥7”.
Today’s price for a bowl of dried-beef noodles in Xilaishun is ¥19. Compared with other places, it is still not expensive and can more than satisfy the stomach. Not surprising therefore that nothing is left uneaten at Xilaishun!
Note that Xilaishun is a Muslem restaurant; food from outside may not be consumed within. Open from 7:00 to 14:00 and 16:30 to 20:30.
Lanzhou beef noodles dates back to Guangxu Period (光 绪年间); 1871-1908 CE. According to legend, the dish was first cooked up by a Muslim chef called Mabaozi. Today, it is famous as a clear but meaty soup with unique flavour, winning the praise of customers at home and abroad. It is rated by the Chinese Cuisine Association as one of the three major varieties of Chinese fast food, with the title of “China’s Top Noodles”.
Xilaishun is located at Building 2-3, 16 Xiaowei Jie (小卫街16号2楼-3幢), 450 metres from Xiamafang Metro Station’s exit 4. Tel: 15850533348.
