Root Inn is no ordinary bar. The award-winning décor is a pun on the name with a rather curious combination of themes; computer-inspired (as in the root directory) and plant-inspired (as in, well, plant roots). The dark interior is punctuated with stylish lighting, and there are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to make yourself comfortable. There is seating for around fifty customers.
This reviewer’s preference tends to be to sit at the bar, in part to admire the fine range of spirits, but predominantly to watch the meticulous preparation of cocktails. Whilst many come here to eat, for me, this bar is about the drinks. There are around 100 whiskies, which is impressive, but is at least matched by a few bars in the city.
What is unique for Nanjing, I think, is a similar number of gins. There are numerous examples that I have not seen in any local bars, nor have I found them online in China. Bottles change with pleasing regularity. A good example is “Iron Balls”. This is made at a small distillery in Bangkok and is very difficult to obtain anywhere outside Thailand.
Whilst one could very happily spend an evening solely imbibing gins and tonic (Fever Tree, being an added bonus), it would be a mistake not to order a cocktail or two. This is where the bar comes into its own. Root is a cocktail laboratory, literally. Their rotary evaporator and centrifuge take me back to the organic chemistry teaching laboratories of my university days.
They measure the alcoholic strength of cocktails using a refractometer, looking every bit the research chemist. The bar staff’s handbook is the excellent, “Liquid Intelligence”, by Dave Arnold, which is a bible for those who appreciate the art and science of the perfect cocktail.
Root’s signature cocktails include Cucumber Gin & Tonic, prepared with “molecular gastromony” and Cyber Pink, made from vodka, lychee liqueur, wine and rose syrup.
On quieter evenings, the staff have conjured up cocktails to order by taste. For example, a discussion of Belching Beaver Brewery’s Peanut Butter Milk Stout led to the rotary evaporator being called into action to produce a whisky-based cocktail with the flavours of peanut butter and chocolate, beautifully presented.
Talking of Belching Beaver, this bar is not a place for beer. There may be one or two cans of craft beer, but this bar is for those who appreciate gin, whisky and cocktails. There is a decent range of wine on offer, but I have not strayed from the above.
Many choose to come here to eat, and an extensive menu includes rosemary Chinese-style spicy chicken, French-style baked snails, pulled pork sliders, French fries with truffle salt and a meat platter (fillet steak, lamb chops and basil sausages). However, when I am here, I find it hard to look beyond the excellent liquid offerings of the bar.
The friendly staff speak English (and menus are available in English). They love to discuss fine spirits and cocktails, and if you show the enthusiasm you should, some free tasters may well come your way. This fine establishment is hidden away on Floor B1 of One Mall, which is a most unlikely location. It takes a bit of finding on your first visit, but do persevere.
Root Inn is located at B1, One Mall, 258 Jiangdong Lu, Jianye District. Tel: 15365160166. Open: 11:00–14:00/17:00–22:00
