When it comes to a halal diet, people will always think of a series of delicacies made from beef and mutton. However, there is such a restaurant that uses the most common fish, duck, prawns and eggs in Nanjing as ingredients, applying new ideas and a unique style to make dishes with both halal flavours and Jiangnan characteristics, which has won the recognition of many diners.
Welcome to Ma Xiangxing, an icon of the city’s cuisine in the minds of Nanjingers for over 100 years.
When I strolled along Yunnan Bei Lu, the wide variety of modern restaurants and cafes on both sides of the road demonstrated the diversified urban dining options available in Nanjing today.
But unlike the refined elegance displayed by other restaurants, Ma Xiangxing gave me a sense of age.
Its storefront is divided into three sections, with the tower-like tall and luxurious arch in the middle and the original restaurant on the far right still retaining its quaint air. Next to its simple pastry shop, the three prominent golden characters, “Ma Xiangxing”, are carved into the wooden signboard, glowing in the midday sun.
The restaurant has a long corridor decorated with the memories of the old times, cultural retrospectives and exchanges with historical literati.
As we look around upstairs, the sophisticated design and decor are refreshing. There are semi-circular decorative lines on the walls, while the corridor’s pillars are painted in an ancient Chinese style. Colourful, glazed-decorative paintings and lamps meanwhile give the place both a distinct ethnic character and an elegant Jiangnan charm.
Now, it needs to be said, if you want to get a seat at Ma Xiangxing at mealtimes, be prepared to queue. For a relatively long time. With it packed with people every day, thanks to its century old reputation, I purposely avoided the lunchtime but still waited for nearly half an hour to get a corner seat.
None of Ma Xiangxing’s popular choices make me salivate more than squirrel fish. As its name suggests, the dish resembles a small golden squirrel. If you look closely, you will see that the fins under the head of the fish are made into ears, while two pepper seeds are made into eyes.
This is a very dainty dish in the eyes of Nanjingers, requiring precisely seventy cuts to evenly slice the fish and form raised pieces without damaging the skin.
Otherwise the fish will fall apart and the appearance ruined. The squirrel fish is therefore very demanding on a chef’s cutting skills. The special sweet and sour sauce with which the dish is topped that tastes, combined with its crispy texture after frying, make it an unforgettable treat.
Squirrel fish is not actually original to this restaurant; it is a classic dish in traditional Jiangsu cuisine. However, in a departure from the conventional method, one of Ma Xiangxing’s chefs, Ma Dingsong, used a more-sophisticated knife technique, cutting through the gills of the fish to remove the main bones and the small spines in its belly without damaging the skin.
It’s an ingenious innovation that has also been well received by local diners.
The next choice is egg shaomai, another dish full of whimsy character. Southerners in China are fond of shaomai for breakfast. Hot wheat flour wrapped around glutinous rice, shiitake mushrooms and lean meat brings satisfaction to those hurrying to work in the morning.
But Ma Xiangxing breaks with tradition by wrapping shrimp in egg skins in a stunning shaomai shape.
The most interesting part of this dish is the preparation of the egg skin, which is not complicated but gives a beautiful feeling of artistic creation. The eggs need to be beaten into a bowl and whisked vigorously to incorporate the whites and yolks thoroughly. The eggs are then shaken and spooned with hot, cooked duck fat to gradually shape the skin. This process is not as easy as it seems; it takes a lot of practice and skill to make a thin and even skin.
I always believe that creativity can endure the test of time. However, today Ma Xiangxing is often criticised for not being as good as it used to be. But these creative dishes, spanning hundreds of years of history, like a wise-old man telling stories from long, long ago, give me a special kind of intimacy.
Whether you are a foodie looking for something different from traditional Jiangsu cuisine and a novel-taste experience like Columbus’ discovery of the New World, or just a casual diner looking for some classic Nanjing snacks or delicate pastries, Ma Xiangxing is always a great choice.
The poet, Su Shi, said, “Good taste in the world is refreshing zest”. An afternoon trip to Ma Xiangxing is to savour the joy that remains in city life. Despite the noise of cars outside the window, Nanjingers can always find a quiet corner, which belongs to both themselves and the old times.
Find Ma Xiangxing at 32 Yunnan Bei Lu 云南北路 32号清真马祥兴菜馆 Tel: 83286388
